Slow Travel on the Big Island

Since our honeymoon in Maui, Brian and I have been dreaming of another trip to Hawaii. Though we enjoyed a couple of layovers during our Aussie getaway, they weren’t enough to shake our dreamy intentions of island vibes and tropical hikes. We craved a longer retreat, one with a restful blend of adventure and balance. Rather than a true escape, our ultimate goal was to experience a trip that coexisted alongside routine yet inspired spirited spontaneity. And so we embraced slow travel on the Big Island, allowing our curiosities and natural rhythms to guide our way.

Big Island, Little Plans

Brian and I have visited both Oahu and Maui. We couldn’t wait to explore Hawaii’s largest and youngest island, the island of Hawaiʻi (as spelled in the local language). Commonly known as the Big Island, it is home to the dynamic Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park and features unique black and green sand beaches. Although we had minimal plans, spending time outdoors topped our must-do list.

A Week-Long Adventure

We made our reservation in July after I discovered a one-week accommodation deal for $950. After taxes and fees, the weekly price for a 1-bedroom unit with a full kitchen came to $1,120.63, which is a decent bargain for Hawaii.

Having a simple place to sleep, work, and unwind while we explored was super important to us. After all, we were aiming for a laid-back workcation that easily flowed into our surroundings. We decided to stay a full week to maximize our free time, though we still worked three days out of the week. Similar to our travels in southcentral Alaska, we were looking forward to a productive routine that also provided us with the freedom to explore.

Saturday’s Arrival: Half Asleep, Fully Excited!

Brian and I landed at the Kona International Airport Saturday morning. We arrived bleary-eyed and bundled up after leaving a chilling 40°F Friday night reunion with friends in San Jose, CA. Though we were operating on 5 hours of sleep, we could feel the warmth of the Hawaiian sun wrapping around us, boosting our tired spirits.

Ala Mauka Makai: From the mountain to the ocean

We returned to the parking lot tired, sweaty, and hungry, but with excitable energy. After topping off our water bottles at the visitor center, we treated ourselves to malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) at Paradise Bakery before heading to Shaka Tacoz in Aliʻi Gardens Market Place, where we refueled and browsed through local artisan crafts and souvenirs.

Coffee Break at Greenwell Farms

Realizing we had over an hour before check-in, we thought it’d be the perfect time to check out a nearby coffee farm. Greenwell Farms offers free daily farm tours and coffee tastings. Brian and I began our tour with Chai, one of 8,000 certified Q graders in the world, which truly set the tone for an insightful and enriching coffee experience. As gatekeepers of coffee quality, Q graders are expertly skilled in assessing coffee beans using specific criteria such as aroma, acidity, body, and flavor.

We toured with 6 other guests, which made for a more intimate experience than we had expected, especially since larger tours can often feel rushed and impersonal. With our small group, Chai was able to really engage with us, sharing her passion for coffee and the art of roasting while answering our questions in depth. We learned that Greenwell Farms is a fifth-generation family farm with more than 150 years of experience. The farm boasts the island’s oldest coffee trees, showcasing a rich and long-standing heritage of coffee tradition.

After sipping samples, we took a short drive further up the mountain to appreciate the horizon before us. It was time for us to check in, pick up groceries, and settle in.

Road Tripping Across the Big Island & Exploring Hilo

Sunday activities were a toss-up between exploring Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park and Hilo. We decided to venture to Hilo, fueled by eager curiosity and the promise of rainforests and waterfalls. The outdoors has become a haven for us, an open world that allows us to roam and explore its vastness.

We tuned into GuideAlong’s Big Island Audio Driving Tour and hit the road.

Saddle Road

State Route 200, locally known as Saddle Road, links the east and west sides of the Big Island, passing between two of the world’s tallest volcanoes, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The U.S. Army originally built the road in 1942 as a military access route, and it remained in rugged and often poor conditions until the early ’90s. The highway has since been paved, repaved, and rebuilt, resulting in a smooth, easy ride.

Driving from Kona to Hilo, Brian and I encountered stunning, wide-open landscapes of grassy slopes and barren lava fields. As a couple of mainlanders, the quick and dramatic transformation between the two amazed us.

Kaumana Caves

We took our time driving, stopping to appreciate the scenery and landscape before us. By the time we had reached our first stop, Kaumana Caves, Brian and I were ready for a workout. The second I knew we were traveling to the Big Island, I 100% penciled in a jaunt to the caves. Dark places are my kind of jam!

The Kaumana Caves are part of a lava tube that formed in 1881 from lava flow from Mauna Loa, an eruption that lasted for months and came dangerously close to engulfing Hilo.

Even though the caves are a part of a larger lava tube system that spans 25 miles, a significant portion is located beneath private property. Visitors can explore roughly 2 miles of the caves through a collapsed area that links them, providing two different entrances. Prepared with sturdy shoes and a headlamp, Brian and I descended the steep staircase to wander into the darkness.

We entered the caves on the right, carefully navigating sharp volcanic terrain and soaking in the damp darkness around us. It was only after we squeezed our way through the first tight passage on all fours that we (begrudgingly) agreed to turn back.

‘Til next time, Kaumana Caves!

Rainbow Falls and ʻAkaka Falls

Next up on our tropical trek was a visit to the scenic Rainbow Falls, an 80-ft tall waterfall that crashes over a natural lava cave. This cave is said to be the mythological home of Hina, the ancient Hawaiian goddess of the moon. As we learned more about Hawaiian legends, we felt a deeper appreciation for the sacred sites we were fortunate to visit during our trip.

Rainbow Falls is essentially a drive-up waterfall that is easily accessible from the parking lot. Visitors can choose to walk a few steps on flat ground to view the waterfall from the front, or they can walk up the stairs to the left for a closer vantage point.

Unlike the first two stops, ʻAkaka Falls State Park requires an entrance fee. Once paid, visitors enjoy a short, self-guided 0.4-mile paved loop through lush greenery. There are indeed two waterfalls on this route, though it’s difficult to view the 100′ Kahuna Fall as it’s partially obstructed by thick vegetation. ʻAkaka Falls, on the other hand, is easily visible from the trail, which absolutely captivated us with its gorgeous, free-falling 442-ft drop.

Hawaiʻi Tropical Botanical Garden

The last leg of our first full day on the Big Island brought us to one of the most beautiful gardens we’ve ever visited. Home to over 2,000 tropical plant species, the Hawaiʻi Tropical Botanical Garden features a raised boardwalk and paved trails that wind through 17 acres, partially hugging the coastline. While Brian and I encountered only a few scattered crowds throughout the day, we found the garden to be even less crowded. We savored a mostly private stroll through the lush and vibrant rainforest.

Sunset Return to Kona

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to Kona. The setting sun peeked through the overcast sky, ultimately casting a warm glow on the horizon. Brian and I lazily cruised the open road, stopping to explore incredible sights along the way. From gorgeous cliffs and open fields to the whispering breeze sweeping through a forest of eucalyptus trees, we relished in the peace and magic of the island.

Day Trip to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

We got up bright and early for this one. Luckily, we kept to East Coast hours, so the early start wasn’t so early for us! With work postponed until the following day, we embraced a full day outing to maximize our time hiking and exploring the park’s many attractions.

Of course, the nearly 2-hour drive was far too beautiful for us to pass through without a couple of stops.

Punaluʻu Beach

GuideAlong suggested a stop at Punaluʻu Beach, one of the most renowned and beautiful black sand beaches in the Hawaiian Islands. Because it’s such a popular beach, there are usually crowds, particularly during the weekends. Well, the early morning worked to our benefit! At 8 AM, there were only four of us exploring the beach. This quick detour became a core memory.

Two other vehicles shared the parking lot with us, both sleeper vans. I smiled, recalling memories from 2015 when I tried to persuade Brian to take a van or RV trip with me.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

GuideAlong was especially helpful to us throughout Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. We initially stopped by the Kīlauea Visitor Center to get our bearings and learn about the park’s history and unique geology. It’s always a smart idea to pop into a visitor center first when exploring a new national park!

Steaming Bluff Overlook

From there, we headed to the Steam Vents and Steaming Bluff Overlook, where we took in the desolate view of the Kīlauea caldera—a large depression formed by the collapse of the volcano following a major eruption. It was an eerie, yet beautiful atmosphere with an overcast haze and a veil of steam. Steam rises from the earth as a result of groundwater seeping down to volcanic rocks heated by the magma below.

We quickly happened upon our single planned activity for the day: a hike across a once-molten lava lake on the Kīlauea Iki Trail. Spanning over 4 miles, we planned to link Crater Rim and the Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube) Trails with the Kīlauea Iki Trail for a scenic loop through tropical rainforest, lava formations, and expansive views of the caldera.

Thurston Lava Tube

Compared to the Kaumana Caves, the Thurston Lava Tube is a well-maintained and more accessible site for visitors of all ages. In fact, Brian and I caught up to a senior travel group at the end of the 600-foot-long cave, and they had zero trouble getting around. Featuring helpful signage and lighting from 8 AM to 8 PM, the Thurston Lava Tube is a tourist-friendly introduction to lava tubes in a safe environment.

Kīlauea Iki Trail

Though the trail itself only took us about 2 hours to complete, it felt a lot longer. I attribute this to the challenging terrain we navigated on the opposite side of the crater. Brian and I hiked the loop clockwise, first descending gradual switchbacks through dense rainforest, then crossing the hardened lava lake and passing through otherworldly volcanic rocks before climbing steep steps back into the forest.

As we left the crater and reached the lava field, the sunlight danced off the rocks, radiating heat all around us. The steep steps cover a much shorter distance than the earlier switchbacks, which felt like a welcome relief after climbing up and over volcanic rocks.

Brian and I continued playing our audio tour once we returned to our vehicle. We drove the Chain of Craters Road, crossing old volcanic craters and lava flows. It was truly a remarkable journey of dynamic topography. Our drive ended at the coastline, where we reveled in the sight of the Hōlei Sea Arch and the unique landscape forever altered by the forces of nature.

A Rewarding Work/Life Balance

Why focus on work while exploring a tropical paradise? Well, for us, work and travel have become a part of our natural rhythm. Workcations have been a regular experience in our lives for nearly a decade. After a successful workcation in Alaska, Brian and I felt confident that we would enjoy the same balance in Hawaii.

On Tuesday through Thursday, from roughly 2 AM until 10 AM local time, we settled into our ordinary work schedules. Afterwards, we went to the pool, explored Big Island’s cowboy country, hiked a couple of trails, and ventured to the southernmost point of the 50 United States.

We embraced our after-work adventures, unhurried and curious to see more of the land, learn about its history and its people, and make some great memories.

Waimea (Big Island’s cowboy country)

Pololū Trail

Puoa Point Trail

South Point

Random Friday Fun

Brian and I left Friday open for whatever came to mind. It was our last full day on the Big Island, and we were looking forward to the freedom to wander and discover anything that crossed our minds. By Thursday evening, we had decided that we would kick off our morning with a 6.5-mile sunrise hike. What better way to enjoy a full day than to begin while it’s still dark outside?

Sunrise Hike

We opted for the Pu’u Wa’awa’a Cone Trail after finding it through AllTrails. There was one other vehicle in the parking lot when we began our hike at 6:30 AM local time. It occurred to us how quiet most of our hikes have been during our trip. Aside from a handful of people, we rarely crossed paths with anyone, making each experience feel like our own private adventure.

The climb starts gently on a pedestrian-only paved road, later transforming to gravel and then green, grassy pasture. It was a touch chilly for me, so I got creative covering my cold ears until the sun peeked out.

We trekked up the grassy hillside, dodging cow patties and divots along the way. The rising sun shone brilliantly overhead as we took in the beauty surrounding us. To our surprise, we realized that Maui was behind us, serving as a beautiful reminder of the place where we celebrated our honeymoon years earlier.

Brian and I continued to the base of the cone, at which point Brian suggested I pick a direction. I chose to climb counterclockwise, which offers a steeper and more immediate ascension than the other side. Honestly, I was just looking for a good workout, and it certainly didn’t disappoint! The views from the top were incredible!

It took us about four hours to complete the entire hike, but that was only because we got distracted chatting with a couple we met on the trail. They currently split their time living in California and on the Big Island. While they were visiting the Big Island a few years ago, the pandemic struck, prompting them to buy a home. Eventually, they were asked to return to the office in CA. They then decided to retire early, keep both homes, and enjoy travel!

Last Call for Malasadas

We felt a deep sadness as we soon had to bid farewell to delicious Hawaiian malasadas. Unfortunately, Brian and I couldn’t make it to Paradise Bakery before they closed for the day. Refusing to feel discouraged, we chose to sample malasadas from two other popular spots: Tex Drive-In and Manuela Malasada Co.

The malasadas from Tex Drive-In were really disappointing. Their malasadas are often considered the island’s tastiest and most affordable. We purchased the guava-, mango-, and banana-filled ones. Brian and I thought they were dense and made with low-quality, artificial-tasting ingredients. They get a big, fat no from us!

On the other hand, Manuela Malasada Co. makes delightful malasadas straight out of their cute, little food truck. Warm, tasty, and so deliciously ooey-gooey, these malasadas hit the spot. We ordered the ones filled with guava, ube cheesecake, and chocolate and haupia. They were great, but they still don’t hold a candle to the divinely indulgent masterpieces from Paradise Bakery.

Our Last Big Island Sunset

From tasty doughnuts and a quick beach jaunt to a relaxed brewery atmosphere at Ola Brew Co., our day was slowly winding down. It started off with a challenging and fulfilling sunrise workout and gradually unfolded into a casual, low-key island kind of day.

We were driving back to the resort as the sun began to set. Rather than miss it, we pulled off to the side of the road and watched the sun dip below the horizon. Despite the roar of passing vehicles, Brian and I savored this simple moment as we randomly stood along the side of a busy highway.

Big Island, Big Memories

The island of Hawaiʻi features a complex collection of rich cultural heritage, thrilling adventures, and distinct landscapes. There are many ways to experience this stunning island, ranging from packed, whirlwind itineraries to slow rhythms that invite flexible spontaneity—and everything in between.

Brian and I loved exploring the Big Island in our own way. We embraced the island’s spirit, blending in some of our daily routines while also creating space for spontaneous fun. Exploration feels like second nature, and we’ve genuinely appreciated the moments spent wandering diverse terrains, lush rainforests, and volcanic landscapes. Guided by the island’s natural beauty rather than a strict itinerary, Brian and I have created wonderful memories that connect us to the land and to each other. They remind us to keep adventuring with an open mind and an open heart wherever we go.

Tune in next week to find out how much our slow travel adventure actually cost us!